09 mei 2014

Sew it Up: I'm A Closet Old Lady

Noise! Music! Minstrels! Dancing! Here's the first thing I've made for Sew it Up, a personal take on a classic jacket:

The first challenge was to make your own version of a pattern we were given. It turned out to be the Jackie jacket (hah!) by La Maison Victor. I have to admit I was a bit stumped at first, since this is not really the kind of thing I'd see myself wear on a regular basis, even though I have a secret old lady hidden inside me (she complains about aches and the weather and is slightly scared of teenagers).

My own ideas of what makes a wardrobe essential tend to differ a bit from those lists you see pop up from time to time. I'm not really into pencil skirts and white shirts, so after some thinking I decided to give this jacket a bit more edge! I wear dresses most of the time so the first thing I did was crop the thing so it would hit me at the waist. I also decided to use studs instead of a trim along the neckline, and added them around the sleeves as well. This had the added advantage of giving some weight and support to the edges of the jacket!

The fabric I used is a gorgeous rayon blend I bought to make it into a dress (and I have to confess I got some extra later so I can still do that... Soon I'll be able to wear this fabric head to toe). It being striped presented an extra challenge, and I was determined to make the stripes line up as best as I could. Everything was cut on a single layer and sewn with loads of pins. The fabric is loosely woven so it shifted and stretched easily, but I'm really happy with how it turned out! Everything matches except for the princess seams, and even those aren't too bad...

Shall we play 'spot the back seam'? Hah! I had a little sewing boner here. This was something I had never done before (except for some plaid matching here and there) and it was immensely satisfying. I kept running over to my (patient) boyfriend to show him the awesomeness.

This fabric frayed like a crazy person, so I chose to bind every seam instead of just finishing the edges with a zig zag stitch. It was some extra work, but definitely worth it! I also chose to stabilize the hem, neckline and front edges as well using fusible stay tape instead of just the armholes. After applyinf the studs I covered the backs (pointy bits!) and the hem with bias tape as well. It's been sewn on by hand so it's invisible from the outside, but it gives some extra weight and body to the hem.

Now, a word about the dress I made to wear with this jacket! As I said before, I was trying to make the entire thing a bit more relaxed and me, so I went for a flowing maxi dress in a linen-look rayon fabric. The pattern is from the latest Burda magazine, and I love how it turned out, even if it made me swear like hell! This fabric frays really quickly as well, so turning all those little straps took forever and had to be done really carefully so the seams wouldn't just split. I also had to take a huge chunk out of the back to take it out of the very dangerous potato sack territory.

I was a little worried about the modesty of the bodice, but I do think it works out fine... I shortened the straps a bit and now the big 'hole' sits right around where some of my other necklines hit. I wore this all day today and the elastic waist makes it super comfortable. This one will definitely be a summer staple!

So, here it is, my first Sew it Up entry! In the end I really love the result, and think it's pretty awesome someone made me try a pattern I normally wouldn't immediately consider... I'm incredibly curious to see what the other contestants have made!

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