tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23204545240562694292024-03-13T20:55:11.562-07:00Anneke CaraminIllustration and sewing in Antwerp, Belgium.Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.comBlogger269125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-59092066009389560232020-11-13T11:22:00.001-08:002020-11-13T11:22:32.616-08:00The Estranged Widow<p> So, a while ago I was browsing some fabrics online at three am, as one does. And I came across a very reasonably priced faux leopard fur. It was miles away from my usual style, but with <a href="www.hannevandersteen.com" target="_blank">Hanne</a> in mind as a little devil on my shoulder telling me to go for it, I bought two meters. The idea? A very simple coat, to keep me warm in winter. After making said coat I got a bit of a 'estranged widow shows up and demands her late husband's fortune'-vibe, so me and my roommate <a href="https://www.lab-v.be/" target="_blank">Julie</a> just went for it and staged a photoshoot. I set something on fire.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-olL1tKUi_wE/X67Tbfcok3I/AAAAAAAAJUE/7syp0EtTinsXj3aOdPwWH6gInMxOZ6zOQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/testament-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-olL1tKUi_wE/X67Tbfcok3I/AAAAAAAAJUE/7syp0EtTinsXj3aOdPwWH6gInMxOZ6zOQCNcBGAsYHQ/s16000/testament-2.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"You'll be hearing from my lawyer"</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br />Pattern! I wanted something loose and relatively straight, and Burda 6359 ticked those boxes. It was also drafted to be made in faux fur, so I thought that was a safe bet. Burda fits me really well and... it's a loose-fitting coat, so I didn't make a muslin. I chose the longest version and added another ten cm, because I wanted a short coat and not a long jacket.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mmiRi9lHVs8/X67Uyy0eZRI/AAAAAAAAJU8/tqXQ83rq5Q0x4Q0VDdFlqO6UOBDDYbcAgCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/testament-14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mmiRi9lHVs8/X67Uyy0eZRI/AAAAAAAAJU8/tqXQ83rq5Q0x4Q0VDdFlqO6UOBDDYbcAgCPcBGAsYHg/s16000/testament-14.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Soon all this will be mine"</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Cutting this out took an entire evening, even though there are only 5 pattern pieces. I cut everything on a single layer, keeping the pile in mind and trying to center The 'stripes' running through the fur on the back, collar and sleeves. This fur isn't that long but there was still plenty of fluff flying around!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IoUzqvCQi98/X67Yc2fvXDI/AAAAAAAAJVI/j_hu89BNeSU9OiyC0_FMuCaT4mJI25siACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/testament-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IoUzqvCQi98/X67Yc2fvXDI/AAAAAAAAJVI/j_hu89BNeSU9OiyC0_FMuCaT4mJI25siACPcBGAsYHg/s16000/testament-11.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Unbelievable"</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br />Sewing this was really straightforward. I glanced at the instructions but there are no real surprises there. I was surprised at the lack of pockets though! I mean, a coat with no pockets at all? I decided to add side seam pockets, with a little fur facing to prevent them showing. It's a little bulky but not enough to bother me.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--gPKWiVm3yg/X67ZjojyJlI/AAAAAAAAJVU/En2WznLhUBguM_FVfxzGiKZCI4j9Ym7FgCPcBGAsYHg/s4899/testament-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4899" data-original-width="3266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--gPKWiVm3yg/X67ZjojyJlI/AAAAAAAAJVU/En2WznLhUBguM_FVfxzGiKZCI4j9Ym7FgCPcBGAsYHg/s16000/testament-3.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"The things I have to endure"</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br />All in all this was a very quick sew, even if it covered me and the entire apartment with a layer of hair. After cutting out the pieces I was worried just the fur and a lining wouldn't be enough to keep the wind out, and what is the purpose of a fur coat if the wind just blows straight through it? So I got some cheap flannel from my stash, cut out the lining pieces a second time and basted them together. This makes this thing super toasty and also gave the coat a little bit of extra body.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ulrFy3fpRjE/X67aXUNqDrI/AAAAAAAAJVg/VX3z4s0xr-IT63lnMOtSvzVO4BjQeIAsACPcBGAsYHg/s4898/testament-24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ulrFy3fpRjE/X67aXUNqDrI/AAAAAAAAJVg/VX3z4s0xr-IT63lnMOtSvzVO4BjQeIAsACPcBGAsYHg/s16000/testament-24.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"It's not real if it's burnt"</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Speaking of that, the instructions specifically say not to interface anything. I get that a fusible wouldn't be a great idea, but maybe something sew-in? It's fine the way it is, but I do feel like the collar and front edges could do with a little more structure, even if it's just a thin cotton to help it keep its shape.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yN9MujnXpLw/X67a70M5toI/AAAAAAAAJVo/xbHOvUu0nHMFrHN14sl6-35vRZXBA8aJgCPcBGAsYHg/s4898/testament-38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4898" data-original-width="3265" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yN9MujnXpLw/X67a70M5toI/AAAAAAAAJVo/xbHOvUu0nHMFrHN14sl6-35vRZXBA8aJgCPcBGAsYHg/s16000/testament-38.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"There, all mine now"</td></tr></tbody></table><p>All in all, I'm very pleased with this coat and secretly looking forward to colder weather so I can wear it! And even if it's still too cold I'll use my late husband's burning will to keep me warm...</p>Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-7374110829881937112020-10-11T12:35:00.000-07:002020-10-11T12:35:16.716-07:00Farting Frogs on a Jacket<p>It seems like I'm becoming one of those cliché bloggers who start every post with 'I'm back guys! For real this time!'</p><p>I mentioned that things had been crazy in my previous post, and that that was why I had not posted in so long. Well guess what: it got crazier. My relationship of over ten years ended during lockdown and I had exams about a month later, and then a summer of healing, taking care of things and picking up the pieces. I remained somewhat active on Instagram and eventually started making things again, but I didn't have the energy to take blog worthy pictures and write a post. Until now! Me and my roommate <a href="https://www.instagram.com/julesdebruxelles/" target="_blank">Julie</a> were showing a friend around the city, and we took a moment or two to take some pictures of a jacket I just finished.</p><p>The fabric for this jacket was bought in Paris during the Paris Sewcial in 2019. It feels like forever ago. I visited the Malhia Kent store with a few people and spotted this stretch jacquard. It was about 40 euros p/m but I had never found a more 'me' fabric. One meter came home with me, firmly destined to become a bomber jacket. </p><p>Then the search for a pattern. I didn't want raglan sleeves because I thought the diagonal shoulder seams wouldn't look too great in the print, I wanted a higher (ribbed) neckline and I wanted a lining. It took some searching but then I found the <a href="https://wardrobebyme.com/products/amelia-bomber-jacket-womens-pdf-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Amelia bomber jacket</a> through <a href="https://www.wanderstitch.com/things-ive-made/walk-on-the-wild-side/" target="_blank">Wanderstitch's version</a>. It had all the features I was looking for, and after reading a few reviews I went for it!</p><p>Here's the result:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0JgYts9sTm8/X4NZO9Rwm_I/AAAAAAAAJFc/-67sfc_aNNAIazLrbJAYzRHgDcg2XqXJACPcBGAsYHg/s1824/IMG-20201011-WA0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="1368" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0JgYts9sTm8/X4NZO9Rwm_I/AAAAAAAAJFc/-67sfc_aNNAIazLrbJAYzRHgDcg2XqXJACPcBGAsYHg/s16000/IMG-20201011-WA0004.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>I love it to pieces, but it was a journey to get there. The pattern company (Wardrobe by me) was completely new to me so I made a muslin, and while the fit was pretty spot on I decided to shorten the jacket a bit to make it more cropped (which looks better to me with high-waisted skirts and trousers). This also means I could squeeze it out of my tiny piece of fabric, sleeves and all! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQ3QwQSpuSY/X4NazSBG3kI/AAAAAAAAJFo/_MfsIWW-ADA5YnSi8ZeD4LR737JFR8v0gCPcBGAsYHg/s1614/IMG-20201011-WA0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1614" data-original-width="1076" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQ3QwQSpuSY/X4NazSBG3kI/AAAAAAAAJFo/_MfsIWW-ADA5YnSi8ZeD4LR737JFR8v0gCPcBGAsYHg/s16000/IMG-20201011-WA0006.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>I also opted for welt pockets instead of the pattern's side seam pockets, especially when I read that they were kind of small. I just like the look of that contrast welt at the front, and used a black cotton sateen to avoid print matching. These pockets are tiny as well because of the croppedness of the jacket, but they hold a face mask!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_p3EyjLkTHE/X4NbV2wZNVI/AAAAAAAAJFw/iWqz-Gi8O1orgXM8hs4gxs1JKff9JaZqQCPcBGAsYHg/s1824/IMG-20201011-WA0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="1368" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_p3EyjLkTHE/X4NbV2wZNVI/AAAAAAAAJFw/iWqz-Gi8O1orgXM8hs4gxs1JKff9JaZqQCPcBGAsYHg/s16000/IMG-20201011-WA0003.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>Now sewing this was... Interesting. I consider myself a pretty advanced sewist, but the instructions for the hem band/facing had me stumped. If I sewed the seams and pressed them in the directions indicated, there was no way the hem band could be attached without weird funky stuff happening at the corners. In the end I unpicked what I had done and did it in a way that made sense to me, and it worked out. I felt a bit frustrated because none of the reviews I'd read mentioned this... Looking back I noticed that most blog posts were by pattern testers, and it looked like there was a difference between their version and mine: the woven part of the hem band seemed to be one with the front and the facing, while mine was a separate piece. I reread the instructions for this post and that part still doesn't make sense to me, so I wonder what's going on there...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D96KArOSXaI/X4NdHAUxPgI/AAAAAAAAJF8/tltBtf2fqmoE0ASrhA-Mi-oeZW8wP3lkwCPcBGAsYHg/s1824/IMG-20201011-WA0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="1216" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D96KArOSXaI/X4NdHAUxPgI/AAAAAAAAJF8/tltBtf2fqmoE0ASrhA-Mi-oeZW8wP3lkwCPcBGAsYHg/s16000/IMG-20201011-WA0005.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>I'm really glad I figured things out in the end, but it would have been a very frustrating experience five years ago! All in all, I LOVE this jacket. Even with farting frogs on it. It's a good step in the process towards feeling like myself again.</p>Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-16341887660881497152020-04-15T07:09:00.000-07:002020-04-15T07:09:16.538-07:00In A PickleHi! Anyone left here, or just crickets?<br />
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The end of 2019 and early 2020 were a bit... Crazy. We moved to a new appartment and I had three exams right after that. I spent the month of February taking a bit of a break and working on some projects, and thought 'hey, once the weather gets better I'll be able to go out and take some pictures!'.<br />
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And then the lockdown happened.<br />
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(For your information, I'm in Belgium, where measures aren't as strict as in Spain or Italy. I'm technically unemployed because all non-essential businesses had to close, but we are allowed to go outside for walks or bike rides. I try not to do this when it's not necessary since the weather is great and everyone seems to have taken up jogging, but it's tough.)<br />
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So yeah, going out to take pictures for a blog seems like a stupid idea right now. So we did a living room photoshoot. Get used to this background because you might see more of it!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0YMoV5qsuvA/XpcN88-vCrI/AAAAAAAAF4Y/160kpFllt28NGG9nsy8qWUxjwH4IH6jOQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="999" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0YMoV5qsuvA/XpcN88-vCrI/AAAAAAAAF4Y/160kpFllt28NGG9nsy8qWUxjwH4IH6jOQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2.jpg" /></a></div>
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The moment this dark green wide wale corduroy arrived at my job I knew I wanted to make a pair of overalls out of it. My boss very generously let me take some home and I set to work reworking the <a href="https://megannielsen.com/products/dawn">Megan Nielsen Dawn jeans</a> to work for this. I previously turned the <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/morgan-boyfriend-jeans-pattern">Closet Case Patterns Morgan</a> into <a href="https://www.annekecaramin.com/2017/05/i-sacrificed-goat-for-this.html">overalls</a> (which I've made a few times and really became a wardrobe staple) and it's a very easy hack: you just need to redraft the waistband to open at the sides and draft some facing pieces for the side closures if you want to do buttons and buttonholes. I went for exposed zippers on this one, so it was even easier.<br />
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The bib portion was stolen from an old Knipmode pattern. I shortened it a bit to work with the higher rise of the Dawn jeans (the original was drafted to start just above the hip). I only had 1,5 m of fabric so had to get a bit creative with the layout. The bib lining and underside of the straps were cut from leftover cotton. I also added a caravan pin my friend Karen got me. She calls me Caravanneke.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7ZDP6Zns8LY/XpcN9Hm48WI/AAAAAAAAF40/27JrtKwk1f8ce5eHGg75TBNjcjgEaubgQCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoCRZTv13TKhIVnnMsU38gzjaA-KqKqpWzcRU8-hip118kDfIIKkFHI-g7Vfp0YMtl2Rwgk69-cn1xwrL4_tKkLgLihAa4-NpWp79ug287otH48SzfIXx6DtXOpvHsV18gj_1i88J0y3w0K0mKWccrYZd_X24jQRRq1VArCNOuNZ2ZDfywqUatuJRyiN_aA4Wza9AG-7wiwBRF3GWcwJXEFgBHbTF9DskvrkjMYlcj74TFZirZwv28C16D2-LRYmmqS8bRgpfm0k1ibwvNPTJp2wOierv-UFq1o_1MoMeSW6X57r8XuAAon2vioHdW1dh24UI5M--w2J0GwOhFLmLs1X3YY-6VkbcQ6azuHM1D8CzAonS1CjxE_iKuykrVOm-ESixXp-ufCYJiX-7w1Kuij1yKCjqZH1S2fHTR7ZPca29UMvZCUPOH-ALDADREnq_fULysSYrfauBU-5RWJW_Y7_sZNjQiKZkeD_9MKdfQnWsCU6kqcmaCBTeJytHmEPLtDzFESXJpzQoqN8C7J73nnj-J_G0kJEIKT3p_z59CbBGCgTr8O3nfDNJdqc1v920AZOG6igOv83i9QxGvGBS1DbgMdCmDNhR9Iwhqbc9AU/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1063" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7ZDP6Zns8LY/XpcN9Hm48WI/AAAAAAAAF40/27JrtKwk1f8ce5eHGg75TBNjcjgEaubgQCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoCRZTv13TKhIVnnMsU38gzjaA-KqKqpWzcRU8-hip118kDfIIKkFHI-g7Vfp0YMtl2Rwgk69-cn1xwrL4_tKkLgLihAa4-NpWp79ug287otH48SzfIXx6DtXOpvHsV18gj_1i88J0y3w0K0mKWccrYZd_X24jQRRq1VArCNOuNZ2ZDfywqUatuJRyiN_aA4Wza9AG-7wiwBRF3GWcwJXEFgBHbTF9DskvrkjMYlcj74TFZirZwv28C16D2-LRYmmqS8bRgpfm0k1ibwvNPTJp2wOierv-UFq1o_1MoMeSW6X57r8XuAAon2vioHdW1dh24UI5M--w2J0GwOhFLmLs1X3YY-6VkbcQ6azuHM1D8CzAonS1CjxE_iKuykrVOm-ESixXp-ufCYJiX-7w1Kuij1yKCjqZH1S2fHTR7ZPca29UMvZCUPOH-ALDADREnq_fULysSYrfauBU-5RWJW_Y7_sZNjQiKZkeD_9MKdfQnWsCU6kqcmaCBTeJytHmEPLtDzFESXJpzQoqN8C7J73nnj-J_G0kJEIKT3p_z59CbBGCgTr8O3nfDNJdqc1v920AZOG6igOv83i9QxGvGBS1DbgMdCmDNhR9Iwhqbc9AU/s1600/3.jpg" /></a></div>
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While making these I was a bit worried about looking like a pickle because of the colour and texture of the fabric, but I think that worked out fine in the end. And even if I do look like a giant pickle... Would it really be a bad thing?<br />
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My <a href="https://www.annekecaramin.com/2019/10/and-then-it-dawned-on-me.html">first pair of Dawn jeans</a> was made in a rigid denim and even though they are comfortable (maybe not after a day of eating) these are a lot softer and feel like pyjamas by comparison.<br />
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(Can we get real about lockdown clothing by the way? I try to put on 'real' clothes every day but... I just can't deal with anything tight or rigid right now. I've always been pretty sensitive to fabric textures on my skin and how clothes feel when I wear them all day, and this seems to be worse when I'm home all the time. I also can't stand feeling restricted right now. So most days I'll wear leggings and loose shirts/sweater dresses and call it good enough...)<br />
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These overalls did get a load of wear already, and I think they will get worn a lot more often. Even if they make me look like a pickle.<br />
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<br />Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-31695803807249694802019-12-17T06:47:00.001-08:002019-12-17T06:47:09.129-08:00Welcome Back To The Angry Girls ClubSo... I sold out the previous run of my Angry Girls Club patches in a single day. It was pretty amazing, and quite obvious that there was a demand! The Patch Club only does very limited editions of their collabs, so I looked around for a place to work with so I could get a bigger order in. I found an embroidery workshop in the Netherlands who were lovely to work with, and they made a new version of the patch, which is <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/735205812/angry-girls-club-patch">available now</a>!<br />
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The new version is a tiny bit larger and a bit more detailed than the previous one, due to the fact that it's been produced by a bigger workshop with bigger embroidery machines! I love both versions, it's still super cool to see one of my drawings in this form.<br />
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I put one on my <a href="http://www.annekecaramin.com/2019/05/clothes-with-friends.html">green denim jacket</a>, and can't wait to wear it out once the winter is over!<br />
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Quite a few of these have already been sold and shipped, but I do have plenty available this time. If you'd like one you can <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/735205812/angry-girls-club-patch">get it her</a>e!Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-84543452091437574602019-11-11T01:55:00.000-08:002019-11-11T01:59:13.961-08:00Flashy KnittingThis is one of those occasions where I saw a pattern and immediately wanted to make it. I saw the <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/volt-sweater">Volt sweater by Sue Stratford</a> and something about the simple shape combined with the David Bowie lightning bolt called my name. I picked out some Cascade 220 colours and kept them aside as a nice project to do while I was relaxing a bit after finishing with my previous job.<br />
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I took this with me on a family weekend (which was PERFECT after the stressful last couple of weeks at work- the shop I worked at closed and we had a huge sale and then had to pack everything and ship it off- chilling with my family and going on long walks was just what I needed after that).<br />
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I started with the front, so after the ribbing it's pretty much headfirst into intarsia, which I'm not that experienced at (My previous <a href="https://www.annekecaramin.com/2017/09/who-needs-armholes-anyway.html">major colourwork</a> project was mostly stranded since I couldn't face the thought of weaving in SO MANY ends). With this pattern it's entirely possible to carry the different colours of yarn up along the rows, so apart from small areas in the middle of the lightning bolt I could just work with continuous lengths.<br />
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I liked the little details that made this sweater a bit more interesting, like the shaped/cabled ribbing on the sides and sleeve cuffs. As usual I worried the overall sweater would be too small, but it turned out to be perfectly slouchy. Construction is straightforward, you knit the front and back first without casting on the shoulders, which are then joined with a three-needle bind-off (which I think it awesome and way more fun than seaming pieces together). After this, stitches are picked up along the side to knit the sleeves flat, and the side and underarm seam are joined in one go. After this, stitches kept on hold at the front and back neckline are put to work again and additional stitches picked up for the neckband.<br />
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I'm glad I bothered to try the i-cord bind off for this neckline, since it's a nice little touch.<br />
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This sweater knit up surprisingly fast, and I feel like I learned a lot from something that looks pretty simple! I'm definitely not as afraid of intarsia anymore. I'm pretty short on knitting time these days though, with a new job and (gasp!) school work and other things. But there is some pretty interesting sewing going on!Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-16530190572235286862019-10-31T02:12:00.000-07:002019-10-31T02:13:30.192-07:00Welcome To The Angry Girls Club<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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Quite a while ago, I made a sticker:<br />
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I made this because I felt in this day and age girls and women have their reasons to be angry, and I was proven right when this sticker resonated with a lot of people! I've had requests to make this into a patch since the beginning, and it finally happened!<br />
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I got together with the lovely ladies from <a href="https://thepatchclub.be/">The Patch Club</a>, a small patch embroidery business here in Antwerp. They produced a very limited run of my design, and it's now <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/735205812/angry-girls-club-patch">available on my Etsy</a>!<br />
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I'm so stoked about this. It's a very small edition (I have four available at the time of writing) but I'm hoping to be able to produce these in a larger quantity in the near future!<br />
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Thank you again to Kim and Sharon of <a href="https://thepatchclub.be/">The Patch Club</a> for making this possible, definitely go check out their designs as well!Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-38863152810020092682019-10-19T08:12:00.000-07:002019-10-19T08:12:18.119-07:00And Then It Dawned On MeI have realised something: non-stretch slim fit pants just really aren't for me. I tested the <a href="http://annaallenclothing.com/philippa-pants">Philippa pants</a> and donated them because they didn't get worn, and I gave my first (tapered) version of the <a href="https://megannielsen.com/products/dawn">Megan Nielsen Dawn jeans</a> to a friend because they would never get worn either. Why? I need to be able to bend my knees, people! And by that, I don't mean just sitting down on a chair or riding a bike. I'm naturally very flexible, and to be comfortable I need to be able to crouch and kind of roll up... Almost like a frog?<br />
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So yeah, I tried the tapered version first, and even though the fit was good I knew it wasn't for me. Those jeans have found a great home with my friend <a href="https://www.instagram.com/charlotte.dumortier/">Charlotte</a> though! I decided to give the wide leg a go, and that worked out way better!<br />
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I used a navy and white striped denim from Stoff & Stil for these, and I think it worked out pretty well! I went by the measurements and cut a size 10, but could have graded down to an 8 at the waist, since it's a bit too loose there and I definitely need that belt.<br />
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Constructing these was a breeze: I've made quite a few pairs of jeans before and the instructions are very clear. I used jeans buttons for the entire button fly because that was what I had around, but next time I might go back to using flat buttons on the fly and one jeans button on the waistband, to reduce some bulk in the front. I did that before on my <a href="https://www.annekecaramin.com/2018/09/professional-pictures-with-beautiful.html">Persephone pants</a> and it worked a treat!<br />
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The waist on these is a bit too big, as I said before, but I feel like I might also need a sway back adjustment. This shouldn't be too hard, I could just take a wedge out of the yoke!<br />
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I didn't really try to match stripes, but I did play with stripe direction a bit. The coin pocket has the striped going horizontally, and so do the belt loops. I wanted to keep these jeans as subtle as stripey jeans can be, so decided not to go too crazy.<br />
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I've worn these loads of times since I finished them, so that's a good sign! And I can crouch.<br />
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Me and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/symforosa/">Eleonore</a> went to the Dries Van Noten stock sales this week and I found a piece of green shiny jacquard that might look amazing as some shiny 'jeans'. How long before jeans are no longer jeans?Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-21802289253457772612019-09-16T01:53:00.001-07:002019-09-16T01:53:26.581-07:00The Worst Fortune TellerI seem to have taken a bit of a blogging break! It's been a bit crazy around here, a lot of things were made but not really documented. The biggest thing I made the past few weeks was a project for a drawing festival called Tekenpudding, organized by my amazing friend <a href="https://www.instagram.com/charlotte.dumortier/">Charlotte Dumortier</a>. It's a sort of drawing funfair with, apart from the usual talks and zine fair a bunch of attractions. They had an open call for booth ideas so me and my Veranda buddies got together, submitted an idea and then heard we had the all clear to build it!<br />
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We wanted to build our own version of the automated fortune telling booths we'd encountered on our US roadtrip last September (Zoltar being the most common one, although we did find an Elvis or two), with a little twist: the fortune teller would only predict bad news. However, our skills are a bit limited when it comes to building robotic wizards. Our solution: make a costume and get into the booth ourselves. Now we only had to build a booth. Easy, right?<br />
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Well, it did work out! We ended up having a pretty tight deadline when it turned out that two of the three people involved were a bit too busy to get started already, so I tried to prepare as much as possible by making a costume and sourcing fabric for the decorations. I went through some fabric shops in my area and returned with a bunch of stretch velvet, some golden poly taffeta and a load of poly brocades. I then tried to make a wizard's costume (or at least, the visible top half) in a day and a half.<br />
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I don't really have clearer pictures than this, but it was... Quick and dirty! Three different people had to fit into this, so I traced one of Dimitri's sweatshirts (since he was the biggest) to get a basic shape to start from. The under layer is a plain t-shirt with very wide sleeves, with a little robe/jacket on top of it. I cut the collar of the jacket on a single layer to save on fabric and finished the edges with bias tape made from golden taffeta. I also used the same taffeta to add a little decoration to the sleeves and finish the sleeve hems. Sewing this very non-giving taffeta to slinky stretch velvet was an adventure, but it worked!<br />
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I ended up attaching the jacket thing to the shirt at the shoulder seams and sewed it together in the front, covering that with two decorative buttons. This turned out to be a good idea because now we wan just pull the costume on over our head without having to pay attention to things laying right! Finally, I made the hat by ironing a heavy interfacing to two cone-shaped pieces of brocade, stitching them together and turning. The edge is finished with more bias tape to tie it together. The hat is a little big (there was wig talk at first) but I might have worn it to a bar afterwards. A cheap costume beard finished the whole look!<br />
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With this sorted out, we tackled the actual booth. I think it was a good idea to make the costume first so we could choose our paint colours around that, since it's much easier to source a paint colour than a specific fabric! We sourced a few wooden beams and leftover pieces of plywood, and I made a little sketch of how things could go together. It had to be somewhat sturdy, not too precise, and not too had to take apart and put together again (since we would have to transport it in pieces). We ended with a wooden frame that was the same width all around, with all the wooden crossbeams postitioned so they would be covered with panels or fabric. The back part is open for easy access, and there's a little table at the front for props, cards and dramatic leaning.<br />
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The biggest job was painting. We primed everything and then I spent a couple hours putting down the base colours (plain old acrylic paint). After this we went through all our books with old etchings, tarot cards and other magical things and sketched out a bunch of things for inspiration! Me, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/helenejacobs/">Hélène</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/jango_jim/">Dimitri</a> then all got thogether and covered all the panels with drawings in gold paint marker. And I mean covered:<br />
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We were very happy with things at this point, and relieved it worked out! Our idea was that people would insert a coin into a slot at the front of the booth, and then get a little spoken prediction and a printed card with an illustration and some more wisdom, most of it bad news. At first we were going to have it printed somewhere, but then Hélène got all next level and decided to screenprint the cards. I designed a little tiled pattern with little things we'd drawn (recycling a fabric design I'd made before) and each of us made two small illustrations for the front. We then wrote a few short words of wisdom/horoscope type predictions and all this made for some really cool looking cards to hand out!<br />
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We were at the festival all day and had such a blast! People really wanted to hear how their lives would go wrong, and I actually did a few scarily accurate predictions. This is something I definitely want to do more of, all we need is an occasion!<br />
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We had a lot of fun working together to make this, especially because it wouldn't have been possible without a few other amazing people. All the love to <a href="https://www.instagram.com/treepack/">Heziz</a> for helping us source some materials, and to <a href="https://www.instagram.com/viktorleestmans/">Viktor</a> for helping out with the heavy machinery and tolerating us in his workspace! And of course, the entire Tekenpudding team for letting us do this!Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-7090684869263978122019-07-30T02:09:00.000-07:002019-07-30T02:09:27.456-07:00Business In The Front, Party In The Back!I actually had the fabric (and the idea) for this dress around for a long time. And then I got a new tattoo that would make this dress idea even better and decided to get started! This was an adventure in pattern drafting that ended really well, and I had a lot of fun figuring out construction!<br />
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Looks pretty basic so far, right? Sleeveless bodice, waistband, gathered rectangles for a skirt? I drafted the bodice myself, but this isn't all that adventurous, right?<br />
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BAM! It's a mullet dress. I wanted to make a bra-friendly cut out in the back so I got out the block I drafted a while ago and tried to figure it out. The block has high necklines, but I marked a few key points when I made it (the lowest points in the front and back before underwear becomes visible) and those turned out pretty helpful. I wanted the back to look a bit like a bow, so I figured it would be the easiest to rotate the back waist dart to the center back seam and turn it into gathers!<br />
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The bodice is fully lined, which was the hardest part to figure out (because I wanted a clean finish on the waistband as well). In the end I left the gathered edges open and stitched those together last, since they were going to be covered up with the little tab anyway. That little tab isn't just decorative by the way! Instead of stitching it closed I added a snap fastener and now I can loop it around my bra band to keep things in place. It's a bit fiddly but it works very well! I loved the idea of this back cutout before I got this really cute bat from <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lozzybonestattoo/">Lozzybones</a> but now it just makes it ten times better. I'm not sure if you can see it in this picture but HIS FACE.<br />
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I wanted an invisible zipper on the side (so the back would look as clean as possible) but I also wanted pockets! I had done this combination of a zipper/inseam pocket before but I rarely sew side zippers so it had been a while. I followed a tutorial online and it turned out fine, not my neatest sewing ever but it'll probably be better the next time!<br />
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I'm not sure if my way of finishing the insides was the most logical one, but it worked! There was some hand stitching involved to attach the inside waistband and the lining to the zipper, and I really enjoyed trying to figure it out. That's the thing with drafting your own patterns: you have no instructions to go on, and once you veer away from basic things it's not like you can rely on instructions for similar garments!<br />
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This turned out as a perfect little summer dress! I haven't made a quilting cotton dress in a while, and don't really have that kind of fabric in my stash anymore, but I'm happy I could turn this into something that still feels very 'me'.Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-25467093565918785882019-07-26T07:44:00.001-07:002019-07-26T07:44:57.796-07:00The Quest For UnderthingsI dipped my toes into bra-making a while ago, and made a few <a href="https://www.annekecaramin.com/2019/01/a-few-years-ago-i-said-that-making-my.html">very successful Watson bras</a>. After this I tried the <a href="https://shop.clothhabit.com/products/harriet-bra-pattern">Harriet</a>, and after a few attempts I managed to make one that fit fairly well, but it wasn't exactly right yet... I didn't feel confident enough to keep tweaking the pattern, so I put the whole project to the side for a while. My underwear drawer was starting to look pretty sad and worn out though (and I couldn't really justify buying new bras with a box full of supplies at the ready) so when <a href="https://shop.emeralderin.com/collections/black-beauty-bra/products/black-beauty-bra-pdf-sewing-pattern">Emerald Erin released the Black Beauty bra</a> I didn't really hesitate!<br />
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It took some work, and I should revisit this pattern at a later date and work on it some more, but for now I ended up with three brand new and wearable bras! I did make a few changes, as you might be able to see. My first version fit fine in terms of cup volume, but the horizontal seam really didn't work on me- the combination of a seam that didn't stretch and a lightweight cup fabric that still had some give led to some weird bumps. I turned the horizontal seam into a vertical one (aligning the starting point with the power bar) and this solved that issue.<br />
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My other main problem was the straps: I loved the idea of the double straps made from the fold-over elastic, but the reality is that my skin is pretty sensitive and the thin elastic straps just felt scratchy. instead I turned the fold-over elastic into a little loop and attached a normal strap. Maybe not as pretty, but way more wearable for me!<br />
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I used mostly stash materials for this, including the last scraps of my precious <a href="http://www.annekecaramin.com/2019/05/birthday-bee.html">birthday bee</a> tulle. Emerald Erin actually had bra kits with this exact fabric, but I had it already! I am going to fray check the hell out of those bees though, one or two were starting to unravel on the dress I made and I don't want that to happen to this bra!<br />
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My first version was more of a toile: I had a piece of this tulle around and wouldn't really mind if it didn't turn out great. I saw it as a chance to test out techniques before cutting into the precious stuff. Another change that I made was to line the entire bra. The version I made is for non-stretch fabrics so it could be fine with one layer, but the thought of an unlined tulle seam going straight across my nipple is a big fat nope from me. I cut all the cup and bridge pieces from a very thin bra tulle, assembled the pieces separately and then basted the cups together before finishing/inserting them. It looks super clean and because the bra tulle is so sheer it still looks very lightweight.<br />
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My second version is made using some stretchy mesh with flocked dots that I had lying around for a while. I used the same method for lining (which was an absolute necessity with the stretchy outer fabric) and used some glorious velvet fold-over elastic and strapping that I got from the new Small Bobbins webshop (check her out if you're in Belgium and want to sew lingerie: she has really cool stuff and the shipping is reasonable for once!). This one is super comfortable, I can see it become a favourite. The only downside is that the combo of stretchy outer/non-stretch inner makes for some wrinkling here and there.<br />
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I actually made my bee version twice. The first one had this gold fold-over elastic that looked really cool but was an absolute bitch to work with (it was super lightweight and just stretched/warped/wiggled all over the place). It looked fine from a distance but up close the top of the cups was gaping and the whole thing looked messy. So I did it again with matte black elastic, and all was well.<br />
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I like the shape these have, so I'll probably keep working with this pattern. The three bras that I made are wearable and very welcome in my wardrobe, but I feel there's room for improvement! The main thing is that the bridge doesn't lie as flat against my chest as it should. I was thinking of narrowing it a smidge and adding a bit of width to the cup at the center front. Not much, just enough to give it more room to curve towards my sternum. But that's for a later date. I kind of want to sew some heavyweight denim now.Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-20009788101064552022019-07-12T07:31:00.003-07:002019-07-12T07:32:34.888-07:00There's A Rat On My Left ShoulderI made this dress a while ago, but only just got around to photographing it! I came across this pattern when I was making a wrap dress for my mother and used it as a starting point (changing it almost completely, the only parts left of the original were the bodice and the sleeve head). After this I decided to make the real deal for myself!<br />
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This is the <a href="https://indiesew.com/products/allie-olson-highlands-wrap-dress">Highlands Wrap Dress by Allie Olson</a>, made in a linen-viscose mix that I dyed burdgundy (it started out as off white!). I've experimented with dyeing fabrics recently, and so far it's always been successful. It's a great thing to do when you like the texture of a fabric, but not the colour!<br />
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I really enjoyed sewing this pattern. The instructions make for a very clean and neat finish, but it's still easy to follow. I had made a muslin for my mother's dress based on this pattern and it fit her really well from the start, so I took the risk and didn't muslin my version (my mother and I are kind of similar in size and shape). It's maybe a smidge too big, but nothing too bad.<br />
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I followed the instructions to the letter, except for the finishing of the facings. There is some hand embroidery on the shoulder of this dress, which was done before the pattern piece was cut out or stitched together, and I didn't want any visible topstitching to interfere with that. So instead of topstitching all around the neckline and armholes I sewed the facings down with a blind stitch, and finished the hem in the same way. That hem is where I hit my only snafu by the way, and it's only due to me being an idiot: I had seen in the finished measurements that the pattern was drafted for someone quite a bit taller than me, but somehow thought it would still be fine (on a full length maxi dress). So I went ahead and hemmed the thing with gorgeous mitered corners and some more hand sewing, and of course it was too long. I put it away for a while, then gathered the courage to unpick everything and shorten it.<br />
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The real star of this dress is of course the embroidery! I knew I wanted to add some before I started making it, but wasn't sure about what. Then the elections happened in Belgium and it suddenly became really clear that I needed a rat on my left shoulder. This probably won't really make any sense to readers outside of Belgium, but this rat here isn't going to roll up anything!<br />
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I traced my pattern piece onto a piece of paper to sketch the rat, and then used yellow carbon paper to put it onto the fabric. I had cut out most of the pattern piece but left a piece of fabric around the area where it would be embroidered, so I could put it in a hoop. I did the majority of the rat like this and then added the tail once the shoulder seam was sewn. It was a really easy way to add something to a solid dress!<br />
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I like this dress on me and it will get worn, but I did notice it's not very bike-friendly. We went to a bit of wood nearby to take these pictures and I had to hold the dress closed with one hand to keep things decent. It's not a problem when I'm walking, but I do ride my bike almost every day so I probably won't make another one for this reason. So if you don't frequently ride a bike, don't hesitate to give this pattern a go!Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-17873005105873848842019-07-03T08:42:00.001-07:002019-07-03T23:46:09.307-07:00I'm Going On An Adventure!So I'll need a nice backpack!<br />
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Not really. But I wanted to make a backpack for a while. I'd been looking at patterns, but everything I found looked very... homemade? I wanted something really sturdy and functional, something I could really carry around all day, even with my terrible shoulders. There are some patterns for roll-top backpacks out there but I don't really like the look of those. I toyed with the idea of drafting my own but got a bit overwhelmed with having to figure the whole construction out and sourcing the materials as well. Then I stumbled upon <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/niizo?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=618592818">Niizo bags</a>. They had patterns for bags that looked very professional, and they sold kits that included everything! I thought it wouldn't hurt to have some extra handholding when dipping my toes into something new, so I bought the <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/618592818/be-strong-backpack-v2-diy-kit-with?ref=shop_home_feat_2">Be Strong backpack</a> kit in black. And here it is:<br />
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I was pretty impressed with the kit when it arrived. Everything was nicely packaged and labeled, so there was no confusion. I had already downloaded and printed the pattern, and cut everything out in one evening. The instructions tell you to mind your fabric layout since the quantity you get is only just enough, and they were definitely right! I cut everything on a single layer and paid very close attention to how many pieces I needed of each pattern piece. I did goof up once when I forgot to cut a second lining piece for the body of the bag, but that was easily remedied by piecing two pieces together.<br />
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This whole thing came together much quicker than expected! I basically put it together in two afternoons/evenings. I did follow the instructions word for word. Bag construction is really new for me and while the techniques themselves are not complicated I had to pay close attention so things didn't go together the wrong way! The finish on this bag is pretty impressive. It's fully lined (with loads of interior pockets) and the only seam that's on show is enclosed in a binding (which I attached by hand because the thought of putting the whole thing under the machine again and stitching that binding neatly was too much)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanne took some nice action shots for me. So much action.</td></tr>
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I was a bit worried about how my sewing machine would handle the heavy canvas, but it wasn't that big of a deal. There was a bit of protest on the very bulky parts, but I didn't break a single needle! The trickiest bit was sewing the body of the bag together, when the entire thing has to move underneath the machine. The canvas was so easy to work with, it's a waxed fabric so you can actually finger press it in place and it holds a crease so well.<br />
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I made one change to the bag, as you can see here. The kit came with a red and white polka dot fabric as a contrast for the bottom of the straps and the inside of the pocket flaps, but that didn't really feel like 'me'. So instead I dug out this kitten print canvas I once got in Leipzig and used that instead! If I'd make this again (probably not anytime soon) I would either use a matching fabric for the bottom of the straps or make the top pattern piece a bit wider so the contrast edges don't really show, but that's just me being nitpicky.<br />
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My favourite part might just be the back. The foam makes it nice and sturdy and very professional looking, and the small zipper pocket in the side is so handy and neat-looking.<br />
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I took this bag with me on a daytrip to Amsterdam and it did great! I'm curious to see how it will hold up, but I'm having high hopes!Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-68473910118628884672019-06-19T12:13:00.004-07:002019-06-19T12:15:11.172-07:00A Jumpsuit On A BandwagonTo be completely honest, I'm not easily tempted by indie patterns these days. A lot of new releases feel like more of the same thing, or just way too simple to spend money on... And then the Zadie jumpsuit exploded all over the internet. I liked the shape and how it seemed to flatter a host of body shapes, so I decided to give it a go!<br />
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I got this plain black linen-viscose blend especially for this on a recent trip to Pauli, and it worked really well for the pattern. There's a good combination of drape and body, so you end up with something soft and flowy that doesn't show every lump and bump!<br />
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I noticed that a lot of people size down on this pattern, and after checking the finished measurements I decided to do the same. It turned out really well, and I'm happy I did! I think this would overwhelm my frame if it was larger. I took a risk and didn't make a muslin, and when I quickly tried the pants on (before attaching the top) I was a bit worried it would look like a clown suit, but once the bodice and waist ties were on it looked so much better!<br />
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For your information, I'm around 1,65 m (with a short upper torso) and the proportions are fine on me. The waist is in the right place and the rise is low enough to keep me mobile (no wedgies!). There is a bit of extra fabric in the back that suggests I might need a sway back adjustment, but I also feel like there is always going to be excess fabric there because these are wide pants being tied together with a belt... Any thoughts? On the other hand, it's not like I can see my butt, so should I let it bother me?<br />
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I followed the instructions for the most part, but I did have a little brain fart and put the tie opening on the wrong side. Woops! It doesn't really matter, but the wrap feels a bit counterintuitive. I also attached the neck binding in two steps instead of one and hand-sewed the inside of the binding and all the hems so I wouldn't have any visible stitches on the outside.<br />
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I'll end this with an obligatory jumping jumpsuit picture, because I was feeling cheesy.<br />
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The verdict: the hype for this pattern feels justified! It came together very quickly (an afternoon and an evening), the instructions are excellent and I'm very happy with the final product. I won't be making the sleeved version anytime soon (this just screams summer to me) but I do have a length of burgundy linen earmarked for a short version...Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-75421358304000327172019-05-28T08:13:00.000-07:002019-05-28T08:13:19.409-07:00Clothes With FriendsI might have made a jacket for one specific patch. Is that ridiculous? Maybe, but I think it was worth it! <a href="https://www.instagram.com/desmet.thijs/">Thijs</a> embroidered a bat patch for my birthday, and I didn't really have a jacket to put it on. Things clicked when I found a heavy dark green denim at Pauli, and I decided to make the <a href="https://alinadesignco.com/product/hampton-jean-jacket/">Hampton Jean Jacket </a>again, but for myself!<div>
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I had made this jacket <a href="https://www.annekecaramin.com/2017/12/exhibitionist-denim-jacket.html">once before for an art show</a>, but never really wore it. It was made as an art piece so I don't really consider it clothing, if that makes sense? Also, it's not really my colour. (Should I put it up for sale? Let me know if you're interested)</div>
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I did like the fit of that first version, so didn't make any changes to the pattern, apart from enlarging the front pockets. The ones on the original pattern are only just big enough to fit my hands into, and I felt like I needed more room for them to be useful. Giant hands strike again!</div>
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I really like how this pattern comes together. The instructions are very clear, especially with the sewalong to help you through the trickier bits! I used a triple stitch instead of topstitching thread for the topstitching, and almost ran out of thread. There is a LOT of topstitching in there, so make sure you're well-stocked if you plan on making this.</div>
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This denim is 100% cotton and quite thick, so some of the bulkier parts were a bit of a struggle. I managed to get through this project without breaking a single needle though! The standard presser foot on my machine has a really handy button that keeps it level when you start on a bulky seam, which was really helpful as well. I find sewing denim to be really satisfying, because the fabric itself isn't that hard to handle (no shifting!) it's just a bit bulky and heavy. </div>
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Apart from the bat I got for my birthday (thanks again <a href="https://thijsdesmet.com/">Thijs</a>!) I also added a few patches I'd collected on our roadtrip through the US last September. They had been lying around for a while and all kind of magically went with this jacket. I put this whole thing together over the span of a few days, and finished it in time to take to the Paris Sewcial! </div>
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I had a really really fun weekend in Paris. There wasn't that much fabric shopping for me (apart from something at Malhia Kent I just couldn't let get away) but I met up with <a href="https://www.instagram.com/evens.brecht/">Brecht</a> one evening and he very kindly gifted me some pieces of fabric he's once designed for a clothing label. One of them was this poly charmeuse type stuff, and it was just big enough for an <a href="https://shop.truebias.com/product/ogden-cami">Ogden cami</a>!</div>
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I've made the Ogden more times than I can count. It's a perfect stashbuster: if I cut the lining parts out of another fabric it only takes around 60 cm. I tried to use some nicer seam finishes on this since the fabric tends to fray a bit: the side seams are french seamed and I tried my best to do a decent narrow hem.</div>
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The real star of this top is obviously the print! I love Brecht's work, and I'm thrilled to have it in my wardrobe now. The other piece of fabric is a beautiful jacquard. There's quite a lot of it, so I'll have to do some careful thinking about what to use it for!</div>
Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-7669655757199327252019-05-16T03:35:00.004-07:002019-05-16T03:35:55.264-07:00Birthday BeeI usually don't have many occasions to wear or sew fancy dresses in my day-to-day life, so when an occasion arises I just go all out! One of those occasions is my birthday. I tend to keep my parties very quiet and low key (people I like gather at my house and we eat all day) so I'm usually ridiculously overdressed, but hey, my party! This year was the year I turned 30, so I went all out and grabbed some embroidered tulle that had been in my stash for a while!<br />
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I loved the <a href="https://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/75-magnolia-dress-pattern.html">Deer & Doe Magnolia dress</a> the moment it was released, and thought it would be a perfect candidate for this dress! I loved the deep neckline but decided to go with the higher one just to stay bra-friendly. This has been a good idea because even the 'higher' neckline is pretty deep!<br />
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I have to be honest and admit that I didn't really look at the instructions for this one. I've made enough dresses by now to figure out my own preferred way of construction, and I was going to do the skirt differently anyway! I wanted a plain underskirt with at least one tulle overskirt, and it took a little bit of thinking to figure out how to construct all this and install the zipper.<br />
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The bodice is made from a very light black viscose. I lined the front and back but kept the sleeves unlined for floatiness. The fit is pretty good (which is often the case for me with Deer & Doe patterns) but the princess seam could use some tweaking. There is a bit of bubbling at the top, so I'll have to take a look at that if I made this again!<br />
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The skirt has three layers: a base layer made from plain black cotton lining, a second layer of plain black tulle for volume and an overskirt of embroidered tulle. I used the skirt pattern pieces for the lining and black tulle layer, but didn't have enough embroidered tulle to do that, so just gathered the entire width of the fabric. It's not as voluminous as I would have liked, but that's entirely my own fault (for not getting enough fabric, AGAIN). I had a good long think about the zipper situation because I wanted all three layers to be separate and only be attached at the waist. In the end I basted them together and folded the seam allowances of the tulle layers back at the seam, so the zipper would only go through the top of the dress and the lining. Does that make sense?<br />
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Because of how soft this fabric is the dress tends to relax and stretch a bit, so the waist ties help a bit to cinch it in. I was surprisingly comfortable for how much I ate during the day, although I did switch to a skirt with an elastic waist and a t-shirt later (but mostly so I could sit on the floor with my friends).<br />
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Would I make this dress again? Maybe, but in a different fabric, so it's a bit more 'daily wear'. I did enjoy floating around with all my (bee) friends all day!Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-84774730889892472362019-04-22T04:42:00.004-07:002019-04-22T04:42:45.096-07:00ReincarnationA good long while ago, Hanne and Astrid hosted a sale where they sold some of their old stock of materials, costumes and clothes. One of the items was a vintage maxi dress, all black floral chiffon and viscose that looked pretty awesome, but also a bit small. Hanne convinced me to try it on anyway, and it magically fit like it was made for me! I took it home and there it waited for warmer days. I then wore it once, washed it on a cold delicate cycle and discovered the chiffon layer had shrunk in super weird ways, making the dress unwearable.<br />
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Damn.<br />
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I sulked for a while and then unpicked the entire thing to make a pattern out of the lining. After a quick muslin to check the fit I cut into some precious viscose from my stash and made this regeneration happen:<br />
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It's not a super complicated dress, but it has some interesting details! Which are very hard to spot in this dark and busy print. My bad! The front bodice has a sort of pointy yoke with gathered cups attached to it, the back has a v-neck. All neck and underarm edges are finished with bias tape that extends into ribbons to form shoulder straps and tie into a bow, but there is a separate shoulder strap underneath (which prevents wardrobe malfunctions if the bows become untied!).<br />
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The hardest part was figuring out the order of construction! I didn't write anything down (obviously) but did manage to find a way to get a clean finish on the inside. The bodice is lined in a cotton voile to give the viscose some extra structure and stability. I thought about lining the skirt since that would allow for a cleaner waist seam finish but decided I'd be happier if this was as light and airy as possible.<br />
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I used this project as a way to get more familiar with my new sewing machine, by trying out some of the different feet that came with it. I fell in love with the edgestitching foot! I don't really have a problem getting straight topstitching on sturdier fabrics (like jeans) but find it a bit of a challenge on light or fiddly stuff, and this foot really helped. I used it to topstitch the bias binding on the bodice and it looks so neat. I also tried the rolled hem foot on the (haha) hem, but that was less of a success. I probably just need more practice but found it a bit challenging to get a neat result: in some places it worked perfectly but sometimes it wouldn't properly catch the fabric or only fold it once. In the end I folded the cole thing over once again and stitched it down, since the fabric is fine enough to get away with that without things getting bulky.<br />
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Another thing I'll need to spend some more time on is my invisible zipper installation. I need to figure out the best needle position to hit that sweet spot of stitching close enough to the zipper teeth so it's invisible, but not so close that it interferes with the zipper! This one works (thankfully) but it's not going as smoothly as it should and I'm praying it doesn't break.<br />
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I'm really glad that I got to save this dress in a way! The original might be gone, but I think I like this one even more...Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-90283855923797116672019-04-10T12:21:00.002-07:002019-04-10T12:21:57.341-07:00The Lady, The Hare And The HawkMore drawing!<br />
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A while ago my friend Dennis told me about a group exhibition he was putting together. The theme was 'Coupe' (cut) and of course, my papercutting work would fit right in... I had plenty of time but ended up doing most of the work at the last minute, as usual!<br />
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The hardest part was that almost everything I make is cut out, so anything would fit the theme, really. I toyed with a few different ideas about surgeries and anatomical illustrations, but in the end I went back to things I like: animals, ladies and skulls.<br />
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These are among the largest papercut pieces I've ever made! They are around 70 by 50 cm, which allowed me to get in a lot of detail, but also made things a bit more unwieldy to work with. If I make pieces like this (where the original is presented and not an edited scan or print) I'll draw a mirrored version of the image on the back of the paper to use as a guide for cutting. This also makes things a bit more complex at times, especially with text! (If something has to be edited anyway I don't bother with this, just draw it the way I want it and mirror everything in photoshop)<br />
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The opening of the show is on April 11th at E²/Sterput in Brussels! I'll be there in the evening, so come say hello if you're around. There's a lot of cool stuff being made by others as well, and I'm looking forward to seeing it! You can find some more information <a href="http://www.pulpdeluxe.be/grensgebied-vite-coupe">here</a>.<br />
<br />Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-17174130440072458442019-04-01T01:52:00.000-07:002019-04-10T12:22:10.305-07:00This Is Where I Draw The LineI've been drawing a lot lately. If you already f<a href="https://www.instagram.com/annekecaramin">ollow me on Instagram</a> you might have seen some of these pop up. I'm working on a big project that I'm very excited about (<a href="http://www.annekecaramin.com/2019/02/tell-me-story.html">you can still send me stories!</a> I'm working on very rough storyboards so it will be a while before I can actually show anything interesting, but stuff is being done!). But there are some other things I've been doing/working on that got me inspired! One of them is the weekly Zine Club at Muntpunt in Brussels, where my friend <a href="https://www.instagram.com/gabrimolist">Gabri</a> (and guests) shares his wisdom. Every workshop has a theme but it feels very free and low pressure, and allows me to just make stuff for fun. A few weeks ago me and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/helenejacobs">Hélène</a> collaborated on a zine about an Emily Dickinson poem, and we were surprised by how much we liked the result!<br />
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Tomorrow is the last workshop, but I hope we can keep this vibe going somehow. It's very inspiring!<br />
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Hélène and I did recently discover that we seem to work well together, and had an idea for a series of drawings about disappointing mythical creatures. This is another low pressure thing to work on when we have the time, and it makes me laugh. Here are the two I've made so far, the first one is a mermaid, but both her halves are fish. The second one is a unicorn with two horns. There's a vampire who just feels more comfortable in his bat form in the pipeline.<br />
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I've also done some more serious work when <a href="https://www.instagram.com/desmet.thijs">Thijs</a> invited me to come draw for one of the Relaas podcast evenings. It's a monthly event where people come tell a story about something that happened to them, and illustrators make illustrations to go with these stories. I love this kind of stuff, and had some fun making these! One story was about a girl who got hot tea spilled on her legs at a bar and suffered some serious burns, the other was about an improvised arm wrestling championship in Kyrgystan.<br />
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Right now I'm working on a few larger pieces for a group exhibition I'm in, keep an eye out for those!Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-84449738498607486652019-03-17T15:27:00.004-07:002019-03-17T15:27:52.011-07:00Intergalactic MechanicI've seen boiler suits pop up all over the place recently, and thought that was a trend I could get behind! I don't think I've ever made a jumpsuit before (dungarees don't really count) apart from a romper that has long been gone because of being too big. I liked the idea of all the possible details on a boiler suit, and went looking through my stash of Burda magazines (I try to look at those first before falling for a shiny new pattern since I feel like I don't sew from them often enough... The problem is that it takes a while to leaf through all of them before I - maybe - find what I'm looking for). Burda didn't disappoint, and I found a pattern in the February 2016 issue that ticked all the boxes: sleeves with little tabs to soll them up, shoulder tab things, a collar, lots of buttons, a fitted waistband (for some shape) and pockets. I made a muslin and then dove into my fabric, which resulted in this:<br />
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Burda patterns tend to fit me really well, although the back tends to be a little too wide for me. I chose a size based on my waist and hip measurement since there seemed to be enough ease around the bust, and the muslin fit almost perfectly! There was just a little excess fabric in the back of the shirt part, and I fixed that by removing some of it and making the back pleat a little less deep.<br />
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My fabric is a plain black linen/viscose, but you might have noticed that I added a few details. I've done almost the exact same thing to two other garments before, but none of those get worn that often anymore (the first one had become way too big, the second one indecently short after a washing incident... I should hem that and make it into a top). I cut out my pattern pieces and then used stencils and some fabric paint to add the stars. This seemed like a good way to not end up with stars in awkward places! After constructing I added more smaller dots to tie everything together, and make a sort of Milky Way across the body.<br />
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Sewing this was a lot of fun! I enjoy patterns with lots of small details, and this had loads of that and some topstitching to keep me busy. Burda instructions are notorious for assuming you know everything already and don't need any actual explanations, but this was pretty smooth sailing (maybe because none of the techniques were that new, I've made both shirts and pants before... The only step that had me stumped were the sleeve plackets, and I think there might even be a few mistakes in there, actually. I read that part ten times, still couldn't make sense of it, looked up a few tutorials and figured it out on my own. Boom.<br />
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I didn't really change anything about the pattern, apart from leaving off the waist ties (I thought it would look too busy <span style="font-size: xx-small;">and I didn't have enough fabric anyway</span>) and slightly tapering the leg instead of adding an elastic cuff. I think I could have done a bit more tapering since the hem is still pretty wide, but it looks fine rolled up.<br />
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This was also the day I discovered the edgestitching foot that came with my machine, and OMG. My old machine had a similar foot but it was less sturdy and not as neat, so I usually didn't bother. But this thing makes topstitching both fast AND accurate, and it has resulted in what might be my best cuffs ever. On a garment I'll usually wear with the sleeves rolled up.<br />
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I wore this for a day in Charleroi, at the Papier Carbone festival. Was it way too cold for a linen jumpsuit? Admittedly, yes. Did I wear leggings and my warmest undershirt hidden underneath all this? You bet. I loved wearing this and even got a big thumbs up from a girl working there who asked me if I'd made it myself.<br />
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I'm not sure if there is room for another boiler suit in my wardrobe, but this one can stay.Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-90974050996998463422019-02-27T08:09:00.001-08:002019-02-27T08:09:39.334-08:00Tell Me A Story<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've been a bit quiet lately, mostly because I've been working on a larger project! And I might need your help. I had the idea a while ago to make comics about things I did as a child and never told my parents about- partly because some of these things were quite funny and also so I could finally come clean to them. I made a few quick storyboards and thought a collection of stories like these would make a great book. The only problem was that I was a pretty good kid, and I don't nearly have enough material!<br />
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So that's where you come in. Did you do something naughty/silly/stupid and managed to hide it from your parents until now? This can range from stealing a doll to setting a house on fire, so please don't think your story is too small/insignificant. If you think of something and would like to see it as a short comic, please let me know! You can e-mail me at caramin.anneke(at)gmail.comAnnekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-85848971297230083842019-02-05T08:46:00.000-08:002019-02-05T08:46:28.617-08:00Bowie Goes To HogwartsSometimes I get these ideas in my head. Ideas for things that aren't necessarily wearable on a daily basis, or things I just want to make without a clear reason or occasion. Like a suit/waistcoat combination in a slightly extravagant fabric. I knew I was probably going to look like a sofa, but still couldn't help looking at jacquards and velvets. And then I noticed this piece of burgundy/purple velvet I brought with me from my latest trip to London.<br />
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What kicked me into gear was the <a href="https://thesewcialists.com/">Sewcialists</a> and their menswear month. I wanted this outfit to be inspired by menswear, but with a few feminine accents. The result just looks very seventies, which goes to show that those labels of 'masculine' and 'feminine' really don't mean much anymore.<br />
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I used the <a href="https://kommatiapatterns.com/products/tr804">Palazzo pants by Kommatia</a> because I made these <a href="http://www.annekecaramin.com/2018/12/swishy-fish.html">before</a> and like them a lot. They are very wide but don't actually use that much fabric: I cut these trousers (with added length so I could wear them with heels) and the waistcoat from 2 yards of fabric! I did cut the waistband in two pieces (inside and outside) instead of one folded piece because I thought a double layer of velvet would get too bulky.<br />
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For the waistcoat I looked through my stash of Burda magazines, and found what I was looking for in a bohemian hippie collection. The magazine version was lined in shearling with the lining peeking out at the edges, so I ignored these instructions and figured out my own way. I sewed the shoulder seams on both the shell and the lining, pinned these together with the right sides together and then sewed around the armholes and neckline, leaving a part of the bottom open. I turned everything to the right side, sewed the side seams in one go (shell and lining) and pressed the bottom hem up to attach the lining by hand. I also added a black sparkly trim because I can.<br />
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The next question was: what do I wear under this? I felt like it would have to be a shirt, but I didn't want things to get too overwhelming. I bought this very lightweight cotton voile at a Dries Van Noten stock sale last year and decided to adapt the <a href="https://grainlinestudio.com/shop/women/archer-button-up-shirt-pdf/">Grainline Archer</a> for my purposes. I left off the collar and sewed the stand as a band collar, and slashed and spread the sleeves to make them gathered (and more dramatic). This fabric was a bit shifty while cutting but surprisingly easy to sew, and I took care with my finishing, using french seams all over the place.<br />
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This was one of those projects that ended up going a lot smoother than expected. I find that some velvets are absolute hell to work with and need two lines of hand basting and a thousand pins just to stay in place, while others are just like 'yeah fine, sew me bitch'. This one only protested when I tried to attach slippery lining fabric (for the pockets and the inside of the waistcoat) to it, but nothing that basting thread couldn't help with.<br />
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So there you go! I wanted to try this and I'm happy to say it worked out. I feel like it's sometimes tempting to make 'safe' choices when you're sewing, especially with more complex projects. After all, if I'm putting so much time into my clothes, I kind of want to be sure that I'll actually want to wear them! But maybe I should go by my impulses a little bit more often.Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-48113999509428783962019-01-29T07:15:00.000-08:002019-01-29T07:15:35.672-08:00It Has Come To ThisA few years ago I said that making my own underwear was not on the horizon. I have a pretty standard size, and finding bras that fit me was never a problem. But recently I started thinking that it could save me some money (bras are maybe the only thing that are cheaper to make than to buy) and allow me to make things that look the way I want them to (I'm very picky about prints, lace and the way things feel!). And if it didn't work out I could always get something from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/hannevandersteen">Hanne</a>.<br />
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The downside is that Belgium might be one of the worst places to look for lingerie supplies, so while I was waiting for my underwires to arrive in the mail I decided to get started with something easy and try the <a href="https://shop.clothhabit.com/products/watson-bra-bikini">Watson bra</a>. I liked the longline band and thought it could be supportive enough to wear under looser tees and sweaters, and the end result is even better than expected!<br />
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It took me two versions and some pattern adjustments to get to this version, made from a very thin (and stretchy) black and gold mesh. I was between band sizes and went for the smaller size first (32D), which was a mistake: it was uncomfortably tight in the band, but the cup size seemed ok. I tried again with a 34D and while the fit of the band was spot on this time the cups were gaping at the center and at the side. I took a wedge out of the bottom of the cup at both sides and out of the side of the cradle, making the bottom curve of the cup more exaggerated and the cradle a bit wider. This glitter version was the third one, and it fit really well!<br />
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I had been using plush back elastic for the bottom of the two first
versions, but found this golden elastic in my stash and thought it
matched the mesh too well to pass up. All I did was align the elastic
with the bottom of the bra (with the wrong side of the elastic on the
right side of the bra) and stitch it down at the top with a triple zig
zag stitch. After that I trimmed the mesh underneath away, since this
elastic has a very soft back and I wanted that on my skin.<br />
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I like the way the straps are attached and noticed my favourite bras have them sewn on the same way. Not entirely sure about having the sliders in front, I'm a little worried it might show through/look weird under some shirts.<br />
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After that little victory (and wearing it for an entire day) I steamed ahead and used the last scraps of my precious glitter scale fabric to make a second version. I had to throw print matching out the window, but feel like this looks pretty cool!<br />
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I pretty much constructed all these as per the instructions, with one
major change: I lined the entire bra with powernet for support
(especially in this stretchy mesh). At first I was a bit worried that
this would be too firm for a pattern designed for pretty stretchy
material, but as it turns out this resulted in something super
comfortable that still looks good enough to wear as a proper bra (and
not just for inside the house). <br />
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Using a lining also makes the insides look very neat and tidy, except for that cup seam of course. I was a little worried that could get irritating, but it hasn't so far. I could probably figure out a way to cover that seam up but... who is going to inspect the insides of my underwear?<br />
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Now let's see what happens once those underwires get there...Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-40315646115192861662019-01-25T07:47:00.000-08:002019-01-25T07:47:50.495-08:00My Inner Grandfather Is Wide AwakeI seem to have a subconscious goal in life to be able to dress myself head to toe in my hair colour. That would explain why I keep making things in different shades of dark green/teal. Or maybe I dye my hair that way because I like the colour?<br />
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We had this yarn in the shop for a while, and while I loved the colour (obviously) I never really paid it much attention. Until I realised how well the slighly fluffy mohair mix would work for a textured sweater, like the <a href="https://www.brooklyntweed.com/shop/cascades/">Brooklyn Tweed Cascades</a>. And then we had a sale on yarn, with my employee discount added to that, so I caved and got it.<br />
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Now, I seem to still have a fear of knitting fitted things. I'll check the measurements, knit a swatch, measure it and then conclude that the size I should be making will be impossibly small, so then I'll size up. And then it usually turns out on the large size. I fought this instinct with my <a href="https://www.annekecaramin.com/2018/04/all-hail-yarn-eating-beast.html">Stonecutter</a> (with great results) but gave in on this one. The result is pretty baggy, but it's so nice and warm I don't even care anymore!<br />
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The sweater is knit in the round from the bottom, which gives a nice seamless finish, but makes checking the fit a bit tricky. I might also have been a bit enthusiastic while I was knitting the body and a bit tired during the sleeves, because this thing is quite long (and the sleeves are a bit short). It's a very nice stitch pattern though, after a few repeats I knew it by heart and didn't need the chart anymore, which made it a bit more relaxing to knit than the Stonecutter.<br />
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I like the combination of tiny cables and moss stitch, even if I did mess up the moss stitch in two places (and these rounds are LONG so going back 400 (cabled) stitches in this fluffy yarn to fix it was too much to bother with). The rows of cables give some interesting lines to a plain raglan sleeves sweater. There are a lot of twisted stitches in here, which give a subtle but interesting extra bit of texture.<br />
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I lovingly call this my grandpa sweater because, um, it kind of reminds me of a grandpa sweater. Which can be a great thing. It's cold and miserable in Belgium right now, and I'm happy to have a few handknit sweaters to wear on days like this!Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-43531991455750070122019-01-11T01:21:00.000-08:002019-01-11T01:23:12.387-08:00Camouflage For The Urban JungleAbout a year and a half ago, I tried <a href="http://www.annekecaramin.com/2017/05/its-my-party-and-ill-dress-like-oil.html">drafting a bodice block</a> for the first time. It worked out all right, got a lot of use and still fit me reasonably well, but I had drafted it without sleeves, adapting the armscyes for a sleeveless body from the start. Recently I thought it would be a good idea to at least have the option of sleeves (and I wanted to know if I could draft them) so it was back to the drawing board!<br />
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I started from scratch instead of trying to reverse engineer the armscye, and a few days of scribbling and sewing muslins followed. The main problem was trying to find the perfect balance between the sleevecap height and the size of the armhole, but after a few tries (and some advice from sewing friends, thanks guys) I landed on something I was happy with (it looks like it fits AND I can lift my arms!).<br />
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So what does one do after going through all that? Why, make a sleeveless dress of course!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look at this great picture from really far away so you don't see any details.</td></tr>
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I bought this cotton lawn along with the <a href="http://www.annekecaramin.com/2018/11/jeans-as-dark-as-my-soul.html">fabric for my black jeans</a> because it was pretty, and fully intended to make a floofy dress out of it. All I had to do was make my brand new block into a sleeveless bodice, scoop out the neckline and add two giant gathered rectangles for a skirt!<br />
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I'm quite pleased with how the fit on this bodice turned out! The instructions in the book I used were a bit... random at times. They don't tell you to go by measurements to place the bust point, but just say something like 'this much down and this much to the left'. I did it their way first and corrected this after the first muslin. I also changed the dart placement a bit and rotated the shoulder dart into the side seam.<br />
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The shoulder darts on the back were tiny so I just rotated them out entirely. I'd rather put that shoulder dart action into a back seam, especially on a print! I went with a v-neck in the back for this one, since that's nice when it's warmer. One thing I did make sure to do is mark the 'lowest' points on my block pattern, meaning te lowest a neckline can go before my bra shows/things get indecent. Same for how wide a neckline can get before I need extra action to keep bra straps in check.<br />
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I lined the bodice in cotton voile and used some leftover Venezia for the skirt lining. I did make sure to make the lining about half the size of the outer skirt since that was already poofy as hell and I didn't want to go too crazy! It gives a nice amount of volume now, and makes sure the cotton skirt doesn't stick to my tights.<br />
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I tried SO HARD to make the print match across the back, but the repeat was too big and I didn't have enough fabric. Boo! Thankfully it's not too obvious in this busy print, but it was still frustrating (because I know I can do it!). I do like how my poppy tattoo kind of looks like an extension of the dress. In black and white then.<br />
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All in all it's a pretty good first result from this new block. It fits well and I still have room for food. Maybe the next thing I use this for will have (gasp!) sleeves!Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2320454524056269429.post-55768630823802426642018-12-29T01:16:00.000-08:002018-12-29T01:16:01.209-08:00Swishy FishI made these <a href="http://www.annekecaramin.com/2017/08/i-will-let-you-know-as-soon-as-i-fall.html">wide-legged trousers a while ago</a>, and since they only made me stumble once (despite regular wear) I thought it would be safe to make a winter version. The idea of swishing around in shiny wool seemed like a good one, and I pulled out a fabric I'd bought in Toronto during my vacation there. The pieces were cut during an evening of work/play at my friend <a href="http://www.koaren.be/">Karen</a>'s appartment, and we took some pictures when I visited her at work!<br />
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These are the <a href="https://kommatiapatterns.com/products/tr804">Kommatia Palazzo pants</a>, which I've made before in linen. This wool has a lot more body (although it's still quite drapey) and I really like how the shape gets more pronounced! Sewing these was very quick (the most time-consuming step is the fly front and even that is not such a big deal), these were done in two evenings!<br />
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I didn't topstitch the pockets on my first version and regretted that ever since because the pocket lining kept peeking out (it has been fixed with some hand stitching) so I made sure not to skip that step on these. It still shows a bit (which is what tends to happen with this type of pockets and bright contrast linings) but not nearly enough to bother me.<br />
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I also noticed in my previous versions that the waistband tended to grow and relax too much, even with interfacing. I had a leftover piece of an interfacing with rows of stitches running through it, which is usually used in jackets, and I used that for the waistband. The stitching runs parallel to the length of the waistband and acts as a kind of staystitching, so this thing does not give. They won't be my eating pants, but they won't fall down either!<br />
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I did forget that I had added length to my summer version (after a warning from Eleonore) and didn't do that for this one, so these are finished with the tiniest bias faced hem. I'm not exceptionally tall and having something come out short (when it's not intended to be short) is a rare occurence!<br />
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I like how these are both basic (dark wool herringbone fabric) and dramatic (there's some silver woven through the fabric and of course those wide legs! A heads up about fabric quantity: The pattern says you need 2,40 meters but I had 1,5 yards and got them cut out without puzzling. I'm not sure if this still applies to larger sizes, but you don't need as much fabric if you're making a size small!<br />
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The t-shirt I'm wearing with it is another slightly modified <a href="https://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/renfrew-top/">Renfrew</a> (neckline raised, side seams straightened for a boxier fit). I made this to wear to our latest elections so cut out the word 'Lies!' in white flock foil stuff and ironed it on. It's gotten a lot of wear since then, and caused some confusion!Annekehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06685471808997698424noreply@blogger.com0